A recoat, often called a screen and recoat, freshens up a timber floor without sanding it back to bare wood. The existing finish is cleaned, lightly abraded so a new coat will stick, and then given one or more new coats. If the old finish is still in one piece, it's usually quicker and much cheaper than a full sand, and it keeps timber in the boards for later.
Is your floor a candidate?
A recoat usually works when:
- the floor looks dull, flat or patchy;
- there are fine surface scratches in the coating, not in the timber;
- traffic lanes are worn but the coating hasn't gone through to bare wood;
- you want to get ahead of wear before it reaches the timber.
A recoat won't work when:
- the coating has worn through to grey or bare timber;
- the finish is peeling, flaking or lifting;
- there are deep scratches, dents or water stains in the wood;
- you want to change the colour;
- the floor has been waxed or treated with polish products containing silicone.
A simple test: in a worn area, put a few drops of water on the floor. If the water beads, there's still coating there. If it soaks in and darkens the timber, the finish has gone through and that area needs sanding.
Why the old product matters
A new coat needs to bond to what's already there. Some cleaning products and "floor polishes" leave waxy or silicone residues that stop new coatings sticking properly. Oiled floors usually need a compatible oil rather than a polyurethane. Tell the contractor what finish was used, if you know, and what you've been cleaning with. They may test a small area first.
How a recoat is done
- Clean. The floor is thoroughly cleaned to remove dirt, grease and residue.
- Abrade. A buffer with a fine abrasive screen or pad scuffs the surface so the new coat can grip.
- Vacuum and tack. All dust is removed.
- Coat. One or more coats of a compatible finish are applied.
Most recoats take a day or less for the work itself, plus drying time. You don't need to move out for most water-based products, but you'll still need to keep off the floor while it dries.
Winter recoats in Ballarat
Drying times on product labels are generally based on about 20 °C. Ballarat's winter mornings are far colder: Bureau of Meteorology averages for Ballarat Aerodrome show July minimums around 3 °C. In a cold house, a recoat can take noticeably longer to dry and cure. Heating the house gently and keeping some air moving helps. Ask your contractor what temperature their product needs.
Winter mud and grit also wear finishes faster at back doors and in hallways. Good door mats and regular vacuuming extend the time between recoats.
Getting ready for a recoat
- Move furniture, rugs and pot plants out of the rooms being done, or ask whether furniture moving is included.
- Stop using any spray-on shine products or "floor polish" in the weeks before the job, and tell the contractor what you have used.
- Vacuum thoroughly, including along the skirting, so less grit is dragged around by the buffer.
- Plan how you'll get in and out of the house. Coats are often applied working towards a door.
- Keep pets out until the finish has dried, and remember that paw prints in a fresh coat are hard to fix.
- If you're heating the house in winter, ask the contractor what temperature to keep it at during drying.
How often to recoat
It depends on traffic, pets, the finish and how well the floor is looked after. Busy family homes may want a recoat every few years in high-traffic areas, while bedrooms can go much longer. The best time is before wear goes through to bare timber. Once that happens, the floor needs a full sand.
Recoating rentals and sales
Recoating is popular before a house goes on the market or between tenants because it's quick and relatively cheap. If the floor has bare patches or deep damage, a recoat may make them look worse by contrast, so a sand of the worst rooms may be better value.
What it costs
Published 2026 guides put a recoat at roughly $18 to $40 per square metre, well under the price of a full sand and polish. Small jobs often attract a minimum charge. See prices.
Frequently asked questions
What's the difference between a recoat and a full sand?
A recoat only refreshes the top of the existing coating. A full sand removes all of the coating and a thin layer of timber, then the floor is refinished from scratch. A recoat is quicker and cheaper but can't fix damage in the wood.
Can I recoat a floor that's been waxed?
Usually not without stripping the wax completely, and sometimes it isn't possible. Wax and silicone residues stop new coatings sticking. A contractor may test the floor or recommend a full sand.
Can I recoat an oiled floor with polyurethane?
Not normally. Oiled floors are usually maintained with a compatible oil. Switching to a polyurethane typically means sanding back to bare timber first.
How long after a recoat can I walk on the floor?
It depends on the product and the temperature. Many water-based coatings allow light foot traffic after several hours at around 20 °C, but in a cold house it may take longer. Hold off on rugs and heavy furniture until the finish has cured.
Will a recoat get rid of scratches?
Fine scratches that are only in the coating usually blend in. Scratches and dents that go into the timber won't disappear.
Ask about a recoat
Send your suburb, the area and a few photos, including a close-up of the most worn spot. With your consent, we'll pass your enquiry to one independent local floor sander, once one is appointed, who can tell you whether a recoat will work. There's no cost or obligation.